Standby ‘Oozes Cool’; Jim Brady's Detroit Offers 'Colorful Contemporary Setting'

Serena Maria Daniels gushes over Standby: The "lair of sophistication" aka Standby "oozes cool," writes the critic. The bar list is "gorgeous, delightful, and semi-endless, no matter your taste." Daniels finds the duck-fat-fried almonds addictive as well as the crispy horchata-and-shrimp rice cakes. Small plates like the beef tartare and American takoyaki were also hits, though it was the unexpected entrees that really impressed. "The lacquered turkey leg had us thinking more Renaissance Festival than fine dining but we were pleasantly surprised. We reveled in the licorice essence of anise star that enhanced the savory flavor of the succulent meat." [Metro Times]

Molly Abraham makes the rounds at Jim Brady's Detroit: It seems like this new suburban outpost will forever be clarifying its name. The critic writes, "Jim Brady's Detroit might seem like an odd name for a restaurant in the heart of downtown Royal Oak," but explains that it's meant to pay tribute to the old Seven Mile restaurant. "Although some memorabilia is displayed, including an evocative black-and-white mural of the old place and more vintage photos on the bar menu and coasters, it's far from a replica." The restaurant features more seating than the original and a "colorful contemporary setting." Brady's "menu is diner-friendly" and "approachable," although it puts "baby kale atop the grilled salmon." Find "hefty sandwiches" here including a French dip as well as burgers and steaks served with sides of garlic whipped mashed potatoes. Three stars. [Detroit News]