No 'One-Note Dishes' at Mabel Gray; Vertical Offers 'Sophisticated Menu'

Molly Abraham gives Vertical Detroit a rave: The critic closes out a year of dining with a visit to Vertical where she finds "a sophisticated menu of dishes from the kitchen of executive chef Alex Knezevic and a full array of craft and traditional cocktails served in a handsome setting that combines old and new." The restaurant's "attention to detail is noticeable," she writes. Small plates like smoked salmon and pate are balanced by "robust dishes, typified by a rack of two lamb chops with pistachio/chevre crust, orzo prepared risotto style and slim heirloom carrots that put to shame their thick country cousins." Vertical receives Abraham's top rating of four stars. [Detroit News]

Jane Slaughter visits Mabel Gray in Hazel Park: "James Rigato has done it again, and in Hazel Park," the critic declares. "Service is gracious to the max; our party was offered compensatory champagne the moment it became clear we'd have to wait for our reserved table." Slaughter acknowledges that early visitors were disappointed by dishes with overpowering flavors, but notes that on repeat visits they "quickly called themselves converts." The regularly changing menu makes it a challenge for Slaughter to review specific dishes. "Take Lamb Melt. One night it came with marinated mushrooms, Swiss cheese, and a Russian dressing labeled 'kimchi,' all on house-made challah. Another night it was topped with Rigato's version of pub cheese: aged cheddar churned with cream cheese, fresh horseradish, pickled peppers, and beer." [Metro Times]