Triple Nickel Looks Like a 'Simpsons' Episode; Mon Jin Lau Has Staying Power

Mon Jin Lau delights Molly Abraham: The "Nu Asian" eatery, established in 1969, "has much more than longevity to its credit. There's also relevance," the critic writes. Abraham calls the classic Cantonese shrimp with lobster sauce "delicious in any decade," though noodle bowls ranging from pad Thai to pan-fried udon are also "increasingly popular." Mon Jin Lau is "its own breed, erasing national boundaries in both menu and ambiance." Abraham gives the experience three stars. [Detroit News]

Serena Maria Daniels approves of Triple Nickel's all-American approach: Triple Nickel's décor "seems to be a toned-down, in-real-life version of an old Simpsons episode, the one with bartender Moe who, needing to draw in a family crowd to save his dive, dresses the place up in red, white, and blue." (But is that a good thing?) Chef John Fleming (formerly of Sindbad's) offers updated versions of classic surf-and-turf recipes. For a real treat, try the stuffed calamari made with Maryland lump crab and lemon caper sauce. "The result is a bountifully endowed, savory seafood dumpling." The filet mignon is leaves "no question about whether the kitchen knows how keep that juicy pink in the middle." [Metro Times]