Republic Earns Three Stars from Critic

Individualism is the theme of restaurant critic Molly Abraham's most recent review. The Detroit News writer seems taken with Republic's menu, which has a character all its own. She awards it three stars and pays special attention to the new downtown eatery's bill of fare that "doesn't resemble other local menus."

The chef plans to change the menu regularly, but there are surely some items that diners are going to want to see for a while, such as the notable seared beef tartare garnished with apple, tarragon and pickled mustard seed. The "seared" part doesn't mean it isn't the classic raw dish, but refers to the fact that the beef is quickly slapped on the heat and then removed just before it is minced. Beef tallow fries, thin, crisp and salty and complemented with a mildly spicy pepper aioli dipping sauce, also appear headed for longevity, as does the whole roasted trout with preserved lemon, white beans and a touch of fennel.

Republic's presentation is as thoughtful as the menu, from the bartenders' denim butcher's aprons to the "collection of cloudy antique mirrors" on the wall. Abraham appreciates "the creativity here on both food and beverage menus, and the unpretentiousness that includes dish-towel napkins and stemless barware."

Have you visited Republic yet? What's your take on this new dining option?